Trieste is an enchanting city, both tangible and elusive in nature. In Trieste, you walk against the tide, not only because it is home to the world’s most famous wind – the bora – but also due to its cuisine which presents a unique challenge. The culinary scene here straddles both near and far from Italy, evoking diverse influences and reflecting its storied past. Coast and mountain, sea and hinterland – Trieste embodies these contrasts, all under the enduring influence of the old Empire that thrived in this city for over five hundred years.

How can one not be captivated? Beer has long been a cherished tradition and source of enjoyment in the city, as evidenced by the establishment of multiple breweries over time. In the pubs and traditional Trieste buffets, food is served around the clock. Here, beer serves not only as a beverage but also as a condiment – combined with mustard and drizzled over Vienna or Cragno sausages. It is said that James Joyce appreciated both the beer and sausage, as they allowed him to rediscover the flavors of his native Ireland – reminiscent of smoky pubs and hearty meals.

During his time in Trieste, the writer traversed these streets and frequented these squares. It was here that he discovered the invaluable delight of coffee, often visiting Pasticceria Stella Polare on Via Dante to indulge in it. What remains unchanged is this quintessentially Triestine appreciation for rituals and the repetition of pilgrimages, much like the one I am undertaking – a sacred journey through the city center’s streets. The pleasurable stops along the way are places where eating and drinking, food and beer meld together seamlessly, such as the buffet established in 1897 by Pepi Klajnsic, also known as ‘Pepi s’ciavo’.

Here, one can truly savor the time-honored flavors of Central Europe: cotechino, porzina (pork meat) with grated kren, bacon, cooked ham, and spare ribs. Two slices of bread and a dollop of the aforementioned mustard, enhanced with a splash of Dreher beer – prepared just as it was during Anton Dreher’s time when he purchased the ‘First Beer Factory in Trieste’ in 1870. The Habsburgs were in power back then, but their influence can still be felt throughout the city – in the beer, Prague-style cooked ham, and kaiserfleisch (the Kaiser’s ham). But that’s not all; Trieste locals assert that some of the best sacher torte, rivaling those from Vienna, can also be found right here in their city.